Fame in the Wilderness

Our next stop is Wayanad National Park.  It’s an 8 hour drive from Fort Cochin to Kalpetta and we’re travelling in an Indian classic car – an Ambassador which reassuringly is built like a tank.

Built like a tank - so is the car

We pass through small villages and towns which hug the coast as we head north.  Men stand around everywhere chatting and watching the world go by, whilst the few women we see are working in the fields, fixing the roads or sweeping the never ending dust away from their homes.  Outside of Khozikode we turn inland toward the mountains.  The road to Kalpetta is steep and narrow and at one point there is a series of nine hairpin bends that carry us high above the surrounding jungle. 

Tricky bends - but we can relax as we won't be going back this way

The road surface at each hairpin is atrocious with most of the tarmac gone leaving deep ruts and loose stones although these conditions do not slow the downhill progress of the many buses and lorries that force other road users to dodge and swerve out of their path.

 We stop to take photos of some of the breathtaking views and can see far below the twisting road that we’ve negotiated. Ice cream sellers are strategically placed at every viewpoint offering their wares.

Not Mr Whippy - more Mr Softee the purveyor of melted ice cream!

Eventually we reached the Chembre Heritage Hotel – the room has fine views of the countryside and hills but there’s a problem – they do not sell alcohol.  We plan a tuk tuk ride into Kalpetta to secure the necessary beverages but no tuk tuks come by.  Helpfully, the hotel manager jumps on his moped and heads off in search and returns followed by said tuk tuk. Our journey into Kalpetta is all downhill and to save fuel involves a fair bit of freewheeling – which is only marginally safer than walking.

Kalpetta is a working town full of men chatting and gawping at these Westerners who had stumbled into town.  We found a bar frequented by locals and on entering I was warned that it would probably not be advisable for a female to enter.  Peering through the door into the dimly lit room all I could make out was the shadowy outlines partaking in what could only be described as strong liquor.  I figured I could wait outside whilst John went in for our carry out.

Over the next few days the hotel arranged our sightseeing and we have had a superb time.  The weather has been hot and sunny and the countryside in Wayanad is stunning.

The Banasurasagar dam is the largest earth dam in India.  The huge artificial lake has islands dotted around which were once the tops of the hills. 

Views from the Banasurasagar dam

After wandering around we went for a ride on a speed boat to get some better photos and to enjoy a cool breeze – the temperature at 10 am already hitting 30 degrees in a place where everyone in Cochin said was cold!

Could be Scotland - except for the 30 degree heat

Back at the car we were parked next to a coach of girls and while I had a cigarette the girls giggled and talked to us through the windows.  When their coach driver returned he observed us chatting then asked John to take his picture with me. John agreed and suddenly four more drivers appeared to get into the picture.  John had to use each of their cameras to record the scene and so began  the start of my movie star status.

Pookot Lake continued our water theme and we hired an executive rowing boat.  The lake is small and John was keen to show off his rowing prowess although executive boats come with an accompanying rower.  Notwithstanding John’s intention to power the craft, the redundant oarsman hopped aboard as we pushed off and for the next 30 minutes we were accompanied by a reluctant chaperone.

John demonstrates his rowing skills - next year Henley 

In the water were black masses with lots of bubbles which on closer inspection were knots of large black tadpoles which our chaperone in a moment of lucidity explained would turn into small frogs.  Given that each tadpole was the size of a golf ball I would not like to bump into the frogs.

Killer tadpoles swarm to our boat

Soochipara waterfall was memorable not for the falls themselves but for the incredibly steep walk down and the numbers of young Indians who accompanied us.  The youngsters were in high spirits, laughing and joking as they made their way down.  Many stopped to chat to us and again we were asked to pose with them so that they could take our photo. 

We knew we were getting closer as the noise from below was raucous and as we reached the waterfall the boys where either in the water or stripping off into trunks or with towels around themselves to hide their modesty.  

Boys will be boys

They waved for us to join them but we declined.  All the girls in their colourful saris and long trouser suits sat and watched.  When we suggested they go in the water they giggled and blushed.  

...and girls will be girls.

Being the oldies we started back up the steep slope.  The walk is about 1.5 kilometres and we took it steady and through gasps for air, remarked that we must be getting fitter as we settled into a pace that kept us moving and before we knew it we had reached the top looking very hot but pleased with ourselves.

We had an early 5.30am start to take us to the Muthanga animal sanctuary.  We tiptoed past the sleeping porter, let ourselves out of the hotel and scaled the gate to meet our waiting jeep.

The journey in the jeep was bone jerking, particularly in Muthanga which has rutted tracks. In truth we didn’t see much of the wildlife – we’d hoped for tiger but had to settle for elephants, peacocks, deer and a big squirrel.  John also got to see some stars when our jeep bounced into another big dip and his napper smashed into the roof – maybe his language scared off the wildlife.

Even in the wildlife reserve the drivers cannot resist an opportunity to overtake

The day was young and after visiting a few historical sites we headed for the Edakkal caves.  There are wall carvings dating back to 3000BC and again there were hordes of Indian tourists but few Westerners.  When we arrived it was hot and muggy and we hadn’t appreciated that the caves were reached through a continuous steep climb of about 2 km. This walk made the trip to the waterfalls seem like a breeze. 

I might be smiling but it was the frozen smile of fear

Again, we were accompanied by coach loads of youngsters even more confident and chatty and requesting photos.  Surprisingly, as many girls as boys request snaps and our walk became something of photo shoot with frequent (and welcome) stops on the steep climb.  As we reached the first cave the path became treacherous with narrow steps and people going in both directions jostling past each other on the dangerously steep incline.

Another 'reluctant' photo shoot

We were becoming a dangerous log jam with increasing cries of “Hello, where are you from?” and “What is your name?” were followed  by the usual request for photos irrespective of the often perilous position we found ourselves in.  As the path became more difficult we reached a small plateau and I decided that I would stop at this point as getting down was going to be a nightmare.  

I can go no further.....

John continued on to the top whilst I was left to pose for photos while trying not to worry about getting down.  John said the views where spectacular from the top and the caves were interesting.

Views from the mouth of the caves

We’ve visited many lovely spots in Wayanad and tried a second safari at Tholpetty which was equally sparse on the animal front.  Our driver did however prove to be very good at spotting wildlife and at various times we stopped to see a magnificent wild elephant, langur monkeys and a wild boar.  

An old tusker wanders past ...

Great with stuffing and an apple

His ‘spotting’ approach did however leave something to be desired as it usually comprised driving on the wrong side of the road as we descended the mountain roads whilst staring into the under growth and largely oblivious of on-coming traffic. 

We are however alive to tell the tale although after two days in a jeep every joint aches. Our next stop takes us from the country and into the city of Mysore. We haven’t experienced Indian city life yet so in our next blog find out what happens when we get there.