One of our reindeers is missing

 Saturday night was the full moon and we were treated to a stunning full lunar eclipse.  Unfortunately, in Sri Lanka the day of a full moon which is known as a Poya day has religious significance – and there is a complete ban on alcohol.

We were up early the next day – amazing what a night of no alcohol can do for you – and we travelled to see Swami Rock atop a 130m cliff.  We pass through Fort Frederick to reach the temple.  The Fort has passed through Portuguese, Dutch and British hands and has thick walls and an impressive gatehouse.  Home now to the Sri Lankan army it this feels very strange watching soldiers doing their drill as worshippers of all ages flood in to pray at the temple.

The up-hill walk is not too steep today but half way up shoes have to be removed so the remainder of the walk is a little more uncomfortable.  From the top we get good views of Trinco and the bays and on two sides there are sheer drops to the deep blue waters below.  

Lovers' Leap seen from Swami Rock

There are lots of worshippers here and they are friendly and chatty – John even talks to a guy with a Liverpool T shirt on who remains blissfully unaware of who the RS are, he just liked the t shirt. Driving back we are astonished to see reindeer wandering over the road – proper full on reindeer with antlers that remind us that Christmas is just round the corner. 

Rudolph the bloody annoying reindeer who won't pose for John

We are getting used to stray dogs in the road – they’re everywhere and the cows aren’t far behind in the ‘wandering aimlessly down the road’ stakes.  We had to stop when a photo operchansity arose – a cow was waiting patiently in a bus shelter and as these are sacred animals it was probably a sign that the next bus had been blessed.  Personally we think Sri Lankan bus drivers should be banished to hell (or recruited to National Express). In a future blog we will report their comeuppance.

When cows go bad

The day of strange happening continued with a visit to Kanniya.  As we arrive the locals are in a state of childish excitement – we walk past stalls selling cheap kids toys and sweet toffees until we reach a sacred site with hot springs.  Everyone is hauling up buckets of hot water and sloshing it on their hands, feet and heads and anything or anyone else that gets in the way.  The feeling of joviality spreads as the hot water is hauled from these brick wells and as one of the buckets has a huge hole, water goes everywhere although nobody minds.  The water is very warm and gives a real softness to the hands.

Splash it all over

We drive around Trinco seeing navy bases, army bases and a lovely airport owned by the airforce where visitors can get flights to Colombo.  We drive along the coast past fishing villages that were previously obliterated by the 2004 Tsuname and which have now sprung up again – life for the people of Trinco goes on although there is a sombre reminder of the events of 2004.  After the Tsuname, a tree was planted for every life lost – the young forest that runs along the beach shows the scale of the loss.

Trinco is a fantastic place and once a decent infrastructure is developed  I can imagine top end hotels shooting up and tourists taking over this beautiful haven.  I’m glad we got to see it as it is…