Scaling Sigiriya

Terrible thunder storms hit Trinco during the night knocking out all phone lines so on checking out of the hotel Visa cannot be used and we settle the bill with a travellers cheque.  This sends  the hotel staff into a tail spin as I don’t think they are used to paper transactions but after a photocopy of my passport and numerous signatures we  are on our way to Sigiria.

Sigiria rock fortress dominates the landscape and it is a spectacular sight emerging from the jungle and climbing above the trees.  Its been occupied since prehistoric times  and once housed a large group of monks in the mountain top monastery. I cannot imagine how they made it to the top with out metal work and concrete.

It’s a World Heritage site with World Heritage prices – 3,450 rupees each for us and 50 rupees for the driver.  We’ve come all this way and we can’t not make the climb to the top.  Besides, it’s only 1200 steps (allegedly).  Our driver has reluctantly agreed to join us probably because we’ve been jibbing him that he should go up. The approach is a gentle stroll through well laid out gardens however the serious business soon begins with seemingly endless flights of steep steps rising ahead of us. 

We're going to climb that?

We take a couple of umbrellas which double as the drivers walking aids.  The steps are narrow and very slippery.  After each bout of steps we stop for a drink or to take a photo – it’s our excuse for a breather.  John and Ramesh ascend a tall spiral staircase to see frescos – protected by a shed perched high on the cliff face, the frescos are as fresh now as when first painted more than 1,500 years ago.  

Look at the lovely murials

We continue our upward progress and come to a terrace in sight of the summit.  The next part of the climb is accessed between two giant lion paws – a walkway clings to the sheer wall by a combination of steel pins and cables.  The walkways snake back and forward as they head to the top but the sight  makes my legs wobble and I am aware that if I go up I will never get down again.  I remain on the terrace as John and Ramesh make the final ascent.  Its steep  and  there’s only enough space for the climbers to squeeze past the descenders. 

Don't look down - Green strides for the top

Sitting at my level I became the official photographer as people keep asking if I will take their picture. A party of about 30 monks are pounced on by Japanese tourists who corral them for a group photo. I snap away as they start the climb and the orange of their outfits next to the rock is impressive.

Brighter than your average Netherlands fan

John reports the views from the top are worth the climb and the guys are hot and sticky when they get back.  As we start out decent it starts to rain and our brollies come out.  However, due to the state of the steps down, progress is safer without the brollies and we arrive at the bottom soaked through.

The garden path to Sigiriya

The drive on to Kandy takes place in a torrential downpour and it’s our worst journey so far.  The road is pot holed and muddy and the bus drivers in particular make no concession either for the weather or other road users.  Our driver takes issue with the buses that overtake on dangerous spots and then stop abruptly without signal to throw passengers off and get back on the road before we regain the lead.  After 3 hours of this I am a shrivelling wreck. I hold on for grim death and my knuckles are white as we skelter around hair pin bends doing kamikaze over taking.

In Kandy, we book in to our hotel which has a bar next door.  Called ‘The Pub’ it’s got our name on it.  We meet the owner Michael and his gorgeous Chinese wife Kate.  As we’re chatting we’re surprised to see Ramesh walk in. We’re gobsmacked when he produces the travellers cheque from this morning.  How did he get hold of this?

Turns out I didn’t sign the cheque in the right place, the bank in Trinco refused to accept it and the assistant manager has been sent on a 6 hour bus ride to catch up with us.  I sign the cheque again and it’s back to Trinco on another six hour journey in the rain and the dark for the assistant manager. Trinco – Kandy – Trinco in one day – I’d have refused to go or resigned on the spot!

Ramesh joins us for a drink – Carlsberg Special.  I suppose a couple of ‘Carly Specials’ is as good a way as any to cope with the roads of Sri Lanka.