Welcome to the Front Line

Bandarawela is a small hill town described by the Lonely Planet as a busy market town that makes a good base for exploring the local area.  Unfortunately, we arrived as the local farmers and hauliers were blocking the road to Badulla and were confronting the local police.

Stalemate as the protesters block the road

Our hotel was smack bang in the middle of ground zero and as the good natured stand-off descended into a small riot with tear gas, baton charges and flying rocks, we enjoyed a grandstand view of the action.  

The police move in

Waiters, chefs and other hotel staff joined the guests in watching the proceedings but how we scattered when a stray shell landed fizzing and hissing amongst us as it discharged its tear gas.

Riot police regroup for round 2 

A red bus caught in the middle of proceedings was attacked by the protesters and had its windows smashed – otherwise given the usual condition of the buses it was hard to tell whether any further damage had been caused.

Sorry Red Bus but you had it coming!

Earlier, we had left Kandy to travel via Nuwara Eliya.  The route takes us high into the mountains and we drive through acres of lush green tea plantations with mainly Scottish names and pass waterfalls that crash down from the rocks above.  We make good progress although our driver still exhibits an alarming tendency to have to overtake trucks and buses on the blind bends and precipices.  Coming round one such bend we are surprised to find a group of teenagers playing a game of cricket – in the middle of the road.  A six is likely to go for a mile or so down the steep hill.

Neither the camera nor our description can adequately describe the views as we climb to about 2,000 metres.  The changing landscape as we climb through the hills, the distant mountains, the villages that cling to the hillside all draw our attention and comment.  Flower sellers and children selling lettuce line the road side as we hairpin our way on.

Nuwara Eliya is referred to as Little Britain.  The British came here to retreat from the heat of the plains and there is ample evidence including a Victorian post office, a boating lake, perfectly manicured golf course and colonial houses with echoes of home.  The Cargills supermarket harks back to better days as a gentlemen's out-fitters offering waterproofs and travelling requisites.

The hotel that we’re staying at is in the same tradition and it is fabulous – a large lounge with comfy armchairs and a dark wood floor, a lounge bar with hunting trophies and wood panelling, snooker room and our bedroom that feels like a set from Jeeves and Wooster.  We feel as if we have stumbled on a Sri Lankan equivalent of Raffles and at any moment expect to take tiffin on the croquet lawn. Oh yes, and the restaurant serves luxury shepherds pie!

The riot has now been put down for the night and we feel reassured that we are at no personal risk.  This is in no large part due to the fact that our hotel lounge has been taken over by the army and police as the command HQ complete with armed guards on the door.

We can sleep safely tonight

This is Kate Adie, sorry Lucy Green reporting from a now quiet Bandarawela….